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Pad Thai

pad TIE
Also Known As Phad Thai

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A stir-fried rice noodle dish built on a sweet, sour and salty sauce of tamarind, fish sauce and palm sugar, tossed with egg and bean sprouts and finished with crushed peanuts and lime. Its rise to a national dish is itself documented history: the government of Prime Minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram actively promoted it in the late 1930s and early 1940s as part of a nation-building and rice-conservation campaign following the country's renaming from Siam to Thailand.

Facts
Origin Period, From (Year)
from 1938 1
Marks the start of Plaek Phibunsongkhram's first premiership, during which his government promoted noodle dishes including what became known as pad thai as part of a nationalist campaign to reduce rice consumption and build a modern Thai identity distinct from Siam's past.
Origin RegionSourced to the subject's own account
Thailand; the wartime sen chan pad thai variant is named for Chanthaburi Province 2
Origin Period, To (Year)
to 1944 1
Marks the end of Phibunsongkhram's first premiership; the state promotion campaign that popularized pad thai nationally is dated to this window.
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The Noodle Dish a Government Built

Most national dishes are said to have simply evolved, cooked into being over centuries by anonymous hands. Pad thai has a paper trail instead, because it was substantially the work of one government trying to invent a nation.

In 1939, Field Marshal Plaek Phibunsongkhram, then in the first of what would be two terms as prime minister, renamed the country from Siam to Thailand, part of a wider program to fuse a modern national identity out of a kingdom that had never needed one before, having never been colonized and so never having had to define itself against a colonizer. The name change was cultural policy, not paperwork, and it came with a companion campaign aimed at ordinary daily life: a set of state mandates called the Ratthaniyom, the Cultural Mandates, that told Thais what to wear, how to greet each other, and, eventually, what to eat.

Rice noodles were part of the plan for a specific, unglamorous reason: Thailand was exporting a large share of its rice crop, including during a period of wartime shortage in the early 1940s, and Phibunsongkhram's government wanted citizens eating less of the grain directly and more of a dish that used less rice per portion while still feeling substantial. Noodle-based dishes fit the goal, and the government did not merely permit them, it promoted a specific one. State radio broadcasts, government pamphlets, and even instructional recipes distributed under the campaign held up a stir-fried rice noodle dish, built on tamarind, fish sauce, palm sugar and dried shrimp, as a model of modern, efficient, patriotic eating. Street vendors were encouraged, sometimes with direct subsidy, to sell it, and a name adhered to the promotion: pad thai, literally "Thai stir-fry", a name that asserted a national ownership the dish had not obviously earned yet on its own.

The irony sits close to the surface. Stir-fried rice noodle dishes were already common across Chinese immigrant communities in Thailand and the wider region before the 1930s; what the Phibunsongkhram government did was take an existing, ethnically Chinese-inflected cooking style, standardize a version of it, attach a nationalist name, and promote it hard enough that within a generation "Thai" was the only adjective anyone associated with it. By the time pad thai became one of the country's best-known culinary exports in the late twentieth century, its manufactured origin had mostly been forgotten by the people eating it, in Thailand and abroad alike. The dish is not fraudulent for having been promoted rather than simply discovered; every cuisine absorbs and reworks what crosses its borders. What is unusual is how well documented the moment of absorption happens to be, down to the government office that pushed it.

Cross-Tradition Connections

In Cuisine

Thai Cuisine, Cuisines
Source The Oxford Companion to FoodAlan Davidson

Uses Ingredient

Source The Oxford Companion to FoodAlan Davidson
Source The Oxford Companion to FoodAlan Davidson
Source The Oxford Companion to FoodAlan Davidson
Tamarind, Ingredients
Source The Oxford Companion to FoodAlan Davidson
Sources
1. Encyclopaedia Britannica
Encyclopaedia Britannica, Inc.View the Source
2. Pad Thai (Wikipedia)
WikipediaNamesView the Source
2. Pad Thai (Wikipedia)
WikipediaHistoryView the Source
The Oxford Companion to Food
Alan Davidson, Oxford University Press, 2014

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