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When did the Spanish custom of sobremesa, lingering at the table after a meal, begin?

Open Question

Wikipedia's Sobremesa article and La Tienda's own culture page both describe sobremesa as a living Spanish table tradition tied to agrarian life and the siesta, but neither names a year, century or era for when the custom of remaining at the table began.

What would resolve this A dated literary or historical reference (a period cookbook, a travel account, an academic food-history source) naming when Spanish sobremesa is first documented as a named custom.
OpenFood historySobremesa (Wikipedia)
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Source Sobremesa (Wikipedia)
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Sobremesa (Wikipedia)
WikipediaLead section, opening sentence
Quote, Lead section, opening sentence
Sobremesa (Spanish: "upon the table") is the Spanish tradition of relaxing at the table after a meal.
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